ON
THE TRAIL TO WILDERNESS BLISS
Each
summer, western outfitters pack clients
and necessities into remote parts of the wilderness for
fun, relaxation and adventure in the great outdoors.
Article
and Photos by Donna Ikenberry
 As
a string of pack mules and horses saunter by with
several cowboys planted atop some of the horses,
two young bull moose lift their heads to watch the
procession. What are they thinking? Perhaps nothing.
Perhaps something. Can they be thinking that the
sight is something straight out of the Old West?
Of course not, but if they were people nearby seeing
the same sight & they might.
My
recent adventure began in Cody, Wyoming, where outfitter
Tim Doud met me the night before my five-day horseback
riding trip into the Washakie Wilderness. While gathering
up most of my gear, he smiled through his beard, "See
you tomorrow."
Breakfast
came with the chance to meet the other clients; Illinois
residents Terry and John drove west with their 18-year-old
son Chuck. Tom and 13-year-old Justin flew out from
Florida to do some father/son bonding. We'd meet
the rest of the crew at the trailhead, about 44 miles
south of town.
Doris
Roesch greets us warmly. A petite woman of
German heritage, she amazes us from the beginning
for she has the unique knack of being nearly one
with her horses. She also manages the outfitting
business with partner Tim. Watching her work, it
doesn't take long to see that she does more than
just cook, in addition she helps saddle up the
horses, makes most of the tack, and helps pack
the pack mules, among other chores.
As
she continues to load several strings of pack mules
and horses, with the assistance of Tim and wranglers
Butch and Greg, the teens asked the usual questions. "How
much can a mule pack?" About 150 pounds. "How
many years have the mules and horses been walking
the trail?" Many of the animals have been
packing in and out of Bliss Creek for more than 20
years.
Two
hours later everyone is sitting atop a horse picked
especially for them, ready to hit the trail. Most
of the group has had little horseback riding experience
so these are horses that are almost guaranteed not
to spook. Doris and Tim supply seasoned horses that
are mellow, mature, and definitely surefooted. And
for those who know horses, the pair will supply some
of their personal favorites.
Ear-to-ear
grins are common as the horses march up the
trail, although Terry confesses that she
is scared. Minutes later, though, she beams a wide
smile. As we head on out, Tim and his horse Jake
leading the pack, a fox quietly scampers up the
ridge. Soon after, some of us focus on the native
wildlife as we cross the boot-high, kind-of-scary,
South Fork Shoshone River. Riding up into the Absaroka
Range, we gaze at the glacier-carved scenes, and
share the sight of three moose feeding along the
river, pikas gathering grass along many a rock
slide, and turkey vultures dancing in the intense
blue sky.
Stops
are few the first day; we have 22 miles ahead of
us. Except for a few breaks and a sack lunch at Needle
Creek - where there's an old miner's cabin - we keep
on moving, crossing one creek or river after another.
Don't ask how many. We lost count.
The
ride through the glacier-carved valley raises more
than just the heart rates of the horses, who are
doing all of the work. Some of the clients feel as
though they're climbing Mt. Everest as well, hearts
racing as they peer hundreds of feet down to the
river below. There's no need to worry though. Just
think about the people who traveled the trail prior
to you, traversing the same open slopes of scree
and loose rock. Think of the Shoshone Indians,
and men like John Colter, mountain man and meat hunter
for the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Most of all,
trust your horse. Yes, the horses know the trail;
why they can even do it in the dark.
Still,
if you don't like the steep sections, there are plenty
of forest and open meadows to enjoy. In fact, camp
is in the trees at 8,400 feet in the heart of four-mile
Bliss Creek Meadow.
The
first night we reach camp by early evening
and slide off the horses. A howdy and a few barks
greet us. The howdy comes from Brad, a wrangler,
the barks come from two loveable dogs, Shadow,
a Newfoundland/lab mix, and Yanni, a great dane.
The
wranglers show us around, introducing us to our "homes"
for the next few days. Each canvas tent comes equipped
with a wood stove, a propane lantern and wooden cots
with thick Styrofoam pads for sleeping. A hot shower
tent and pit toilets are nearby. Doris starts dinner
in the big main tent where all the cooking and most
of the socializing goes on. We gulp down our meals
(every meal was delicious), gobble up the last bit
of cherry cheesecake around midnight, and bid each
other a goodnight.
The
next morning, as every morning, there are scenes
worthy of dew-soaked jeans and wet, soggy boots.
Rainbows of lichen blanket meadow rocks, adding to
the potpourri of wildflower color. Two cow moose
chase each other through camp while some of us eat
a leisurely breakfast, and others take off to do
some fishing in Bliss Creek. Come afternoon, several
of us ride through dense lodgepole pine woods, past
musical streams, traversing lupine-covered meadows
en route to a ridge near Wall Mountain.
The
third morning finds all of us (save two wranglers),
riding six miles up to the head of the South Fork
Shoshone. Occasionally, we traverse steep open slopes
and meadows where the views are terrific, the wildflowers
prolific; we see purple bull elephant's head, red
Indian paintbrush, white columbine, powder blue forget-me-nots,
and purple larkspur.
Standing
atop 10,200-foot Shoshone Pass, nearly surrounded
by granite mountains, Tom claims, "This is
just like a postcard." And so it is. From
our vantage point, East Dunoir Creek Meadow stretches
to the west toward the town of Dubois (Du-boys).
We can see forever! While we look, the boys head
up a nearby slope to play in the snow. We search
for grizzlies on the fourth day. The Clark Creek
drainage and 10,290-foot Pierpoint Pass provide
access to a view of Hidden Basin where we see several
dozen elk. Unfortunately, the grizzlies elude us,
but we have never-ending views just the same.
Our
fifth and final day rouses a combination of feelings.
Chuck promises to return someday, but right now he
is anxious to get to a telephone so he can call his
girlfriend. Justin wants to get home to do whatever.
The adults are all unanimous in their desire to stay.
We do not want to leave!
But
we have to, and we do, and we all vow to come back
again. Fortunately, the memories of moose, mountains,
and much more will tie us over until the next time.
Fifty
miles east of Yellowstone, Cody, Wyoming, is
an excellent place to begin and end any adventure.
Cody attractions include the Buffalo Bill Historical
Center, Historic Trail Town, Old West Miniature
Village, and free Friday night concerts in the
park. I highly recommend two scenic drives, U.S.
Highway 14A, where you'll see the Medicine Wheel,
Shell Falls, etc., and Beartooth Highway 212 with
its spectacular alpine scenes, see-forever
views, and tremendous wildflower display. Campgrounds
and other services are many. Contact Park County
Travel Council, P.O. Box 2454, Cody, WY 82414;
(307) 587-2297, for additional information.
Length
of trips offered by Bliss Creek Outfitters vary from
one day to seven or more. Doris and Tim will work
out a trip for any size group for any number of days.
Summer pack trips are usually held in July and August.
Children are welcome, but a minimum age of 6 or 8
is encouraged. Rates vary depending on trip length.
For more information contact Doris and Tim, Bliss
Creek Outfitters, 326 Diamond Basin Rd., Cody, WY
82414; (307) 527-6103; FAX (307) 527-6523; email: bliss@wavecom.net.
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